If you're looking into building snow plow wings homemade, you probably already know the frustration of watching half your work spill off the side of the blade every time you make a pass. It's called "trail-off," and it's the bane of anyone trying to clear a driveway or a parking lot in a reasonable amount of time. You finish a long run, look back, and there's a nice little line of snow exactly where you just plowed. It drives me crazy, and honestly, the commercial wings you see in the catalogs are priced like they're made of solid gold rather than a bit of steel and rubber.
That's why a lot of us end up in the garage with a welder or a drill, trying to figure out a better way. Making your own wings isn't just about saving a few hundred bucks—though that's a huge part of it—it's also about making something that actually fits your specific setup. Whether you've got an old beat-up Western, a Boss, or a tiny plow on an ATV, a set of homemade wings can cut your plowing time down by thirty or forty percent.
Why bother with homemade wings anyway?
The main reason is efficiency. When you add wings, you're essentially turning your straight blade into a giant scoop. Instead of the snow just sliding off the ends, the wings catch it and force it forward. It's the difference between pushing a flat board through sand and using a shovel. You can carry way more weight, and you don't have to go back and "clean up" your edges nearly as often.
Another big factor is the price of retail kits. If you go to a dealer, they might want $500 or $600 for a pair of "pro" wings. For a lot of us, that's just not in the budget for a hobby or a small side hustle. Building snow plow wings homemade means you can source your own scrap metal, use some heavy-duty rubber you might have lying around, and get the job done for the cost of a few bolts and some spray paint.
Choosing your materials: Steel vs. Rubber
When you start planning your build, you've got a big decision to make: do you want rigid steel wings or flexible rubber ones? Both have their fans, and honestly, it depends on what you're plowing.
Steel wings are incredible for moving massive amounts of heavy, wet snow. They don't give an inch. If you're clearing a large, flat lot and you want to move the maximum amount of "white gold" possible, steel is the way to go. The downside? If you hit a curb or a hidden rock, something has to give. If the wing doesn't bend, your plow frame or your truck's mounting brackets might.
Rubber wings (or steel wings with a thick rubber edge) are a bit more forgiving. A lot of guys use old conveyor belt material or even sidewalls from heavy equipment tires. These are great because they can take a beating. If you clip a curb, the rubber just flexes and snaps back. They might not "scoop" quite as aggressively as solid steel, but they'll save you a lot of headache in repairs over the long run.
The basic design: Fixed or Folding?
This is where the engineering gets fun. A fixed wing is the easiest to build. You basically just bolt a triangular or "cup" shaped piece of metal to the ends of your plow. It's sturdy, simple, and won't fail on you. The problem is that it makes your plow wider all the time. If you have to drive through narrow gates or transport your plow on the road, fixed wings can be a real pain.
Folding or pin-on wings are the gold standard for homemade builds. Most guys use a heavy-duty hinge or a simple "sleeve and pin" system. You can have the wings out when you're in the middle of a big lot, then pull a hitch pin and fold them back or pop them off entirely when you need to get through a tight spot. It takes a little more work in the shop, but you'll thank yourself the first time you have to navigate a narrow drive-thru or a tight residential street.
Step-by-step: How to put it together
You don't need an engineering degree for this, but you do need to be comfortable with a few basic tools. If you can use a grinder and a drill, you're halfway there.
- Measure twice, cut once: Start by measuring the height of your plow blade. Your wings should be roughly the same height, maybe a hair shorter so they don't drag on the ground when the plow is angled.
- Create your template: I always recommend making a cardboard mockup first. Tape it to the end of your plow and see how it looks. Does it stick out too far? Is the angle right? It's a lot easier to trim cardboard than it is to re-cut 1/4-inch steel.
- Fabricate the frame: If you're going with steel, cut your side plates and your mounting brackets. Most homemade builds use a "C" shape or an "L" bracket that wraps around the end of the plow blade. This gives the wing something solid to bite into.
- The "Aha" moment with mounting: Don't just weld the wings directly to your plow unless you're 100% sure you never want to take them off. Use heavy-duty Grade 8 bolts. Drill through the ribs on the back of your plow blade for the strongest connection point.
- Adding the cutting edge: Don't forget that the wing needs its own cutting edge. You can use a strip of high-carbon steel or that thick rubber we talked about earlier. Make sure it sits just a fraction of an inch higher than the main plow's edge so it doesn't catch on every little crack in the pavement.
Safety and things to watch out for
I'd be lying if I said there weren't some risks with a snow plow wings homemade project. The biggest one is weight. Adding twenty or thirty pounds of steel to each end of your plow changes the physics of your setup. It puts more strain on your hydraulic pump and your lift ram. If you've got a lighter-duty plow (like a "homeowner" grade model), you need to be really careful not to overbuild the wings. Keep them light but functional.
Also, think about your "trip" mechanism. Most plows are designed to trip forward if they hit an obstruction. If your wings are bolted on in a way that interferes with that trip motion, you're going to break something—and it'll probably be expensive. Always ensure the wings have enough clearance to move with the blade if the springs engage.
Maintenance and the "First Snow" test
Once you've got them built and painted (don't skip the paint, or they'll be a pile of rust by February), you've got to test them. Don't wait for a blizzard. Take the truck out and do a few dry runs. Watch how the wings interact with the ground.
After your first real storm, check all your bolts. The vibration of plowing is intense, and things will loosen up. I like to use Nyloc nuts or even a bit of Loctite to make sure those wings stay where I put them. There's nothing worse than looking out your side mirror and seeing one of your homemade wings bouncing down the street behind you.
Wrapping it up
At the end of the day, building snow plow wings homemade is just a classic DIY solution to a common problem. It's about taking a tool you already have and making it better. It might take you a Saturday afternoon and some grease under your fingernails, but when the snow starts falling and you realize you're finishing your route an hour earlier than usual, it'll all be worth it. Plus, there's a certain pride in knowing that your custom-built setup is out-performing the guy down the street who spent a fortune on a "name brand" kit. Just keep your welds clean, your bolts tight, and your edges sharp, and you'll be ready for whatever the winter throws at you.